Food and Identity

For years, Indonesia and Malaysia have been at wars with each other. As one Malay Archipelago, both countries would undeniably share similar cultures with one another, and sure enough, Indonesia and Malaysia are at war with each other – especially when it comes to cuisine. Rendang, nasi goreng, satay, otah, curry chicken, ketupat. The list goes on, and so does the debate of “ownership”. However, this post is not going to talk about whose side is right or wrong. We aim to find the relation between food and identity while celebrating unity in diversity.

Food plays a big part in our cultural identity. Especially in Indonesia, each ethnicity is defined by their food and taste palette and religious festivities are linked to specific cuisines. Javanese are known to have a sweet tooth even in their chili, the Sundanese prefer something less subtle and less sweet, and Padang is all about the spice. How did these connections come about? The main factors are geography and lifestyle. The vast island of Java is full of palm trees and sugarcanes as well as spices, allowing experimentation of food and relying on sugars. The Sunda lands are filled with foods such as pete and tomatoes, giving the distinct sour Sunda taste with hints of spiciness and spices. Padang people are known to be anak rantau or travelers, working as sailors or migrating to bigger lands for new opportunities. Hence, their food has to have a long shelf-life without much re-cooking required through slow cooking and specific spices. All these different circumstances and needs are specific to regions and ethnicity, leading to diverse food tastes and preferences and a wide range of culinary experience within one nation.

Not just in Indonesia, but in other diverse countries as well such as United States and Singapore, where different territories have different ethnicity population, affecting the region’s choices of food like in Chinatown of US where Asian food is more readily available and Little India of Singapore where a variety of north and south Indian and Middle Eastern food. Specific food may define specific cultures, but a wide range of cuisines in one country may represent a country’s identity of diversity and cultural acceptance. In the United Kingdom, one of their five British values is tolerance of those of different faiths and beliefs, and this is evident in their wide choices of cuisines, from the traditional fish and chips to the many middle eastern cuisines available and Nando’s chicken restaurant which infuses the African spices into their food. Hence food is not merely just an identity of an individual and their great ancestors, but also of a nation and their pioneers.

Now that the relationship between food and identity has been established, it is no wonder Indonesia and Malaysia are at war. They feel as though they are of different cultures because of their different nationalities, and so they do not feel as though they should share the same food as well. However, though some foods have similar names and characteristics, they are still distinctive. Indonesian rendang is much drier while the Malaysian rendang has more gravy, the Malayan’s roti canai is much thicker and doughier than the Indian prata and Japanese sushi is simpler than Korea’s kimbap. Despite this, let us recall one of the rare moments of unity in diversity – the “crispy rendang” saga – and embrace our differences.

Gustiaulia Nabila

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